Ion CHERCIU
Institutul de Etnografie și Folclor „Constantin Brăiloiu” al Academiei Române
In this work, the author analyses, from the perspective of the history of the Romanian folk costume and of the Court costume, a photograph from the Collection of the anthropologist Francisc Rainer, entered in the Iconographic Collection of the Romanian Ethnographic Atlas.
The clothing of the group of peasants from Câmpulung Muscel ethnographic area reveals an archaic phase of the folk costume in this part of Țara Românească province and the influence of the costume worn at the princely courts from the 15th-17th centuries on peasant clothing; we can notice the simplicity of the skirts decoration, the cut of the traditional blouse of Carpathian type with a wide embroidery on the top of the sleeves; and, related to head covering, the adoption of the hat specific to the ruling classes clothing.
It is worth mentioning that, in the folk costume outside the Carpathian Arch, Muscel area was the only one that kept, until the beginning of the 20th century, the hat as an accessory in women's celebration outfit.
Keywords: iconographic, Francisc Rainer, traditional costume